Timballo - An Italian Pasta Dish
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There are many timballo varieties and derivations. Each of the four provinces in the Abruzzo Region of Italy has a recipe for what it considers “il vero timballo italiano” (the real Italian timballo). Most recipes call for a dish that resembles lasagna and consists of many (typically between 10 and 20) layers or fillings. A variety of meats (lamb, beef, etc), sauces (bolognese, besciamella, etc, and/or some mixture of the same), pastas, and even risotto can be found in a timballo. In the area in and around Teramo in the Abruzzo Region of Italy the timballo is made with layers of crepes known as scrippelle. Virtually all timballo’s are baked in the oven and most are enveloped in a pastry shell. In Amatricia some cooks add the Amatriciana sauce to their Timballo. The making of a timballo can require several hours of a chef’s diligent labor.
A timballo is a “primo” or first course in Italy. The second course, “secondo” might consist of a meat serving, perhaps mazzarrelle, ventricina, or arrosticini.
Many people believe that the best timballo’s in the world come from the small village of Valle San Giovanni, a frazione (suburb) of the provincial capital of Teramo in Italy’s rugged Abruzzo Region. The timballo’s of Valle San Giovanni are made in the traditional Teramo manner using scrippelle in lieu of pasta layers. These timballo’s often contain peas (piselli) and tiny meatballs (polpettini). Valle San Giovanni is also well known as the home of Casale, a villa once belonging to the Di Domenico and Rolli families.
A good number of families from Valle San Giovanni and Teramo have emigrated to the United States and opened eating establishments. All are extremely popular and include Di Paolo’s Italian Ristorante in Penns Grove, NJ; Pasta Plus in Laurel, MD; Le Virtu’ in Philadelphia, and Pizza John’s in Essex, MD. In Pennsville, NJ there is an Italian dining establishment called Italian Kitchen where the owners can make this dish upon request. A nearby deli is called Roman Pantry, and here the renown chef Marianne Di Marco, has become a living legend for her culinary skills in making this exquisite culinary delight. The rivalry between the Italian Kitchen and the nearby Roman Pantry has been quite fierce. Most residents of these two towns consider the contest a tie. All have benefited from this good natured competition to be crowned “The King (or Queen) of Timballo”. The movie actor Bruce Willis sometimes dines at both of these locations and there is some pressure for him to weigh in on this matter. So far he has remained silent while enjoying the food at both. One must remember that this list would be incomplete without mention of what is probably the most famous of the group in the Philadelphia area, Mama Maria, owner of an eponymous restaurant and the host of a very popular weekly television cooking show. Although better known for cheesesteaks, in the Southern New Jersey area Timballo rules!
The people still living in Valle San Giovanni, “vallaroli” as they sometimes call themselves, are extremely proud of the accomplishments of their cousins and other relatives who have moved abroad. They know that it is an extremely remarkable accomplishment for a village this small to have earned such a wide ranging international audience. The world is extremely fortunate that the people of the Teramo Province of Italy took their beloved timballo recipes with them when they decided to move afar.
A timballo plays a prominant part in the Stanley Tucci film, “Big Night.”
A red Italian wine goes well with a serving of timballo. Many find that a cannoli and some vinocotto are the perfect ending for such a meal.
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